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Ho l’impressione che insieme alla questione ambientale, quella alimentare sara’ centrale nel prossimo futuro, per le sue implicazioni politiche ed economiche.
La questione obesita’ comincia a farsi vedere negli articoli di giornale anche da noi. Le mode alimentari (diete piu’ o meno insulse) raccolgono adepti ed orientano i nostri consumi, senza che in realta’ si sappia molto di cio’ che mangiamo. Quanti Km ha fatto il pollo che mangio stasera? Com’e’ stato cresciuto? Centinaia di domande a cui e’ difficile dare risposta, soprattutto nel quadro della distribuzione moderna che ci mette di fronte ad una illimitata quantita’ di opzioni pronte da comprare e servire. Eppure sono domande dalla portata immensa.
Si sta facendo largo una sensibilita’ molto forte verso questi temi e mi pare che Slow food ed Eataly diano delle risposte economicamente, socialmente e politicamente efficaci. Sull’economico e’ facile: valorizzazione delle produzioni di aziende del made in Italy alimentare. Sul sociale e sul politico il discorso e’ ancor piu’ interessante: conoscere quel che si mangia permette di avere un approccio piu’ razionale e preparato alla cura della propria salute, senza cedere alle lusinghe di pasticci confezionati da qualche dietologo furbo e consente di avere degli impatti sanitari non irrilevanti.
Aggiungiamo che molte delle tecniche di allevamento e coltivazione intensive alla base delle cose che mangiamo ogni giorno sono responsabili di problematiche ambientali di non poco conto: fare delle scelte piu’ informate anche da questo punto di vista e’ un passo importante che ciascuno di noi puo’ fare verso stili di vita sostenibili.
Insomma: eataly, slow food ed altre iniziative mi paiono rilevanti ben oltre l’edonismo da gourmet. Vi segnalo, su questi temi, un importante ed interessante libro di Michael Pollan “The Omnivore’s Dilemma” su cui sara’ il caso di spendere qualche parola nelle prossime settimane.
C’è chi dice che l’economia italiana si è oramai ridotta a produrre solo pasta, vino e culatello. Beh, dopo avere visto il video su Eataly che Marco ci propone, il senso di preoccupazione ha lasciato subito spazio ad un sentimento di ammirazione. Dietro un “buon prodotto” alimentare c’è una straordinaria complessità culturale ed economica che poche tecnologie possono rivendicare. Fino ad ora questa complessità è rimasta confinata nelle tradizioni di consumo locale, o riservata a pochi estimatori. C’è, dunque, un potenziale di crescita enorme. Eataly può diventare uno strumento interessante per rendere questo potenziale un po’ più reale.
Il tema mi è molto caro, così come penso stia a cuore a molti italiani. Un plauso a slow food, che fa molto di più di quanto finora abbiano saputo fare i vari Governi che si sono succeduti. In modo forse un po’ semplicistico, ma sincero e disincantato, mi viene da dire che il problema centrale è che la politica se ne frega (o non ne è capace) di occuparsi di aspetti “di sostanza” nella gestione dei territori e dei suoi elementi di valore. Le questioni di poltrona sono la rovina del nostro Paese. Abbiamo un tesoro da scoprire e svelare per i turisti stranieri, ma anche per gli stessi Italiani. Bisognerebbe adottare un’ottica di sistema, dove riconoscere e valorizzare le varie vocazioni territoriali, collegando in modo armonico e sapiente territori, storia, cultura, tipicità. Tutto all’insegna dell’autentico, dell’esperienzalità e della riscoperta delle tradizioni. Il consumatore oggi lo vuole, fortissimamente. E invece si pensa ancora a dare sussidi finanziari al sud (sono meridionale), con la logica della “Cassa del Mezzogiorno”, invece di pianificare iniziative di sviluppo delle economie locali capaci di far leva proprio sui migliori asset delle regioni centro-meridionali del nostro Paese. Chiudo con un esempio: vengo dalla Costiera Amalfitana, terra incantevole, che campa sostanzialmente di rendita sulla notorietà delle sue più celebri località. Bene, questo territorio potrebbe quadruplicare la propria attrattività e profittabilità se valorizzasse in modo integrato le sue specificità storiche, paesaggistiche, culturali ed enogastronomiche. Ma qui ci vorrebbero quelle “manovre a tenaglia” di cui parla il prof. Rullani…
Dopo aver visto il video di Eataly devo dire che l’iniziativa mi sembra ancora più interessante, il mix che propongono ha tutte le carte in regola per avere successo e per dare spazio alla promozione/educazione al buon cibo di qualità, recuperando l’ossessione per la tracciabilità e i temi ambientali che dopo la mucca pazza hanno preoccupato molti consumatori e hanno fatto cambiare il modo di mangiare (e di comprare) di molti di noi. Apprezzo il recupero in chiave “produttiva” dell’”archeologia industriale” che l’ex fabbrica di vermout ha rappresentato, un modo per pensare di riempire di nuovi significati spazi non più utilizzati, mantenendo comunque un legame con quanto si faceva prima e non solo in chiave di intrattenimento (culturale, shopping.. )
Mi chiedo: a quando un eataly in Veneto? Forse riuscirebbe a calamitare molte più persone che non Ikea…
Un aspetto che vorrei sollevare riguarda però l’esportabilità all’estero della formula eataly: nel video si parla di km 0, di allevatori/macellai che servono, speigandola, la propria carne a compratori stupiti… dobbiamo pensare che questi prossimi 10 punti che verranno aperti serviranno per alimentare un turismo enogastronomico di qualità oltre che un mercato italiano asfittico e troppo abituato al supermarket, oppure saranno il trampolino di lancio per il made in italy alimentare all’estero? quanti dei ns macellai andranno oltre confine?
Quando vado a Eataly mi perdo. Come al solito corro perché la spesa è il mio ultimo pensiero, il cibo spesso diventa un obbligo tra tanti in una vita fatta di altre cose, ma lì non riesco a essere frettolosa, quello è un posto dove il cibo si annusa e si fa guardare oltre che comprare, è un posto di storie appese alle pareti, di pensieri sparsi, un posto dove puoi fermarti a leggere il giornale o a navigare in rete (solo computer mac…). Mi fermo tra gli scaffali e mi stupisco di ritrovare le pastiglie leone che mangiavo da piccola o il latte alla spina come nelle vecchie latterie di paese. Fare la spesa lì è un viaggio lento nel passato e nel futuro, indubbiamente piacevole. Come dice giustamente Marco Eataly è un luogo di apprendimento dove il cibo diventa l’elemento culturale su cui si costruisce un cambiamento che ha a che fare con la lentezza, con il prendersi cura di sé e degli altri ( a Eataly non ci sono distributori di numeri per le code perché tutti devono essere in grado di attendere il proprio turno senza scalpitare) e del pianeta (tutela dell’ambiente significa anche non usare borse di plastica…). L’idea forte è che dietro la scelta di un cibo ci sono storie, conoscenze e significati, la pratica della scelta consapevole trasforma il consumatore in attore sociale che si riconosce in una collettività che ha valori simili. Hai la borsa di Eataly? Allora mangi e pensi in certo modo… Un simbolo che va oltre il cibo…
Non è un posto dove andare a fare la spesa, è un luogo da frequentare per molti motivi…
@Eleonora l’esportabilità di una esperienza come eataly è un tema cruciale. mi sembra che l’intezione sia proprio quella (almeno a parole). Bisognerà capire se la filiera sarà in grado di rispondere a questa sfida. il paragone con ikea mi sembra azzeccato. Molte persone visitano ikea anche semplicemente come forma di intrattenimento per assaporare la cucina svedese (certo non a livello di quella italiana) e per stare in luogo piacevole e design oriented. Mi sembra che eataly abbia fatto dell’intrattenimento intelligente la propria bandiera. A leggere quello che scrive lucia nel suo commento sembra anche che ci stiano riuscendo. Forse il consumatore cerca nuovi spazi dove sognare e sentirsi libero.
Marco
Eataly apre anche a New York e il New York Times gli dedica un bell’articolo
http://www.nytimes.com/2010/07/28/dining/28eataly.html?_r=1&src=me&ref=homepage
bello l’articolo. interessante il modello di eatily. un mix sapiente tra made in Italy e prodotti local. con un management anch’esso local ma di qualità. non la solita multinazionale
marco
eatily apre a New York
http://www.corriere.it/cronache/10_agosto_25/gaggi-eataly-wall-street-parla-italiano_938b9388-b01a-11df-817a-00144f02aabe.shtml